Camino Entry 12

Day 12, December 6th, 2012
219.6km completed

Expenses, Day 6
Chocolate and Churros (mmm): 3.00
Cheese and Baguette: 3.38
Castillo Monzón Entry + postcards: 3.80
Monster Baguette: 1.10
Pensión La Manchega: 15.00
Total: 23.28
Trip Total: 316.63

Today’s lesson is that things open very late in rural Spain. Another short day, but the first 20km or so were totally without towns of any sort and so I needed to provision here in Tamarite. The plan was to get up early, get bread and cheese, and get on the road.
I didn’t count on the fact that the only places to get food don’t open until 10am here. The bakers didn’t even start today’s bread until 9am. There’s three hours of sunlight (9 or 10km) lost right there. If I was at any other stage of my life, it would be perfect.

I said three hours lost, but I wouldn’t say wasted. There is a chocolateria open early, where I got chocolate and churros . . . the best so far in Spain. It makes up for no pizza last night. I lost a chance to get a day ahead, but I’m not behind and so it’s fine. My schedule puts me in Santiago on January 16th with no rest days, so I may even get to Finisterra. No need to rush; what would I do with a bunch of extra days anyway? Stew in the hostel in Barcelona?

Later

I’m trying to get a room right now at a pension in Monzón, La Manchega. I found the place, but after ringing the bell twice one of the guests? tenants? came out to tell me to go ask at the bar on the corner for the owner.

The bar is named “La Tropicál” and is suitably warm and humid inside; the tap sweats under cheap fluorescent lighting. Some young people are here, about my age, playing darts and doing crosswords while the old guys stick to cards and cigars. Everyone is a regular but me – the spunky barmaid goes to each in turn with pet names and a kiss on the cheek. She called the landlady for me, thank goodness.

Lots to write about Castillo Monzón and the templar, but tomorrow