Showing posts with label Galicia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Galicia. Show all posts

Saturday, February 2, 2013

Camino Entry 48


Where am I?  Crossing the bridge into Portomarín http://goo.gl/maps/VylBd

Here's one of the pilgrim cafes that are getting more numerous as we approach Santiago de Compostela.  The infrastructure makes this such a different camino than the one in Cataluña . . .http://goo.gl/maps/zRxBh

Entry 48, January 11th, 2012

Expenses, Day 48
Breakfast: 2.40
Coffee: 1.20
Provisions: 5.00
Cookies (yum!): 2.00
Anchovies: 2.00
Albergue (Gonzar): 5.00
Total: 17.60
Trip Total: 1077.44

About 30 kilometers today. It felt long, and the last few kilometers my right shin hurt like the left did in Puenta la Reina. If it is the same injury then I will have to let the Koreans go. The plan is 32km, 35km, 20km, but if I am injured I will not be able to keep pace.

More rolling farmland today – a mosaic of meadows and low stone walls. Galicia is more “earthy” than the other parts of Spain so far – everywhere you look it is encroaching on the trees, walls, and buildings. It is as if there is a wild green forest underground waiting to burst through, restrained only by the weight of the concrete buildings.

Galicia is wet. Descending into the valley where Portomarín is located, I encountered mist that was if anything thicker than any before. Walking through the wild forest and the mist it felt as if I was in the jungle. Dagobah, maybe.

Here's something I've been meaning to write. It's important. I've believed for a long time there is a fundamental level of isolation between people, as we can never know what is in anyone else's mind. Lately I've realized that there is a countering force as well, balancing it out. Even though we never truly know each other's minds, we are all on the same path together. We all share in the same set of experiences – the universal human condition. It's one of the four rules: no pilgrim is alone. And that's not something to sneeze at.

Rule #5 is this: Sometimes there are mountains. Discussion to follow.

Tuesday, January 29, 2013

Camino Entry 47


Where am I?  One of my favorite pictures so far: http://goo.gl/maps/b5gGq

(You can follow the blue dots on google maps to track the trail)

Entry 47, January 10th, 2012

Warm today. The wind turned around to the South in the night, we could hear it creaking in the rafters.

More Korean food ripping my face off for breakfast . . . so good. Now we're drinking coffee at a tiny house/bar/cafe/albergue in the hills. The old woman made us coffee while her adult son brings in firewood for the day. The kitchen door is open – there is a wood stove for cooking. Old school.

Later

Holy shit, I walked 40 kilometers today. I took the alternate long path to Samos, a monastery to the South of the camino. It added about 5km to my walk, but Rosa recommended it to me and my gut says keep walking with the Koreans, so I had to catch up with them after seeing it.

It was a beautiful walk. The paths were one until Triacastela, coming down the mountain. We could see tomorrow's walk. From there the paths split – I took the left fork. Between Tricastillo and Samos were several hours where the path followed the Sarria river. Day three of fucking beautiful; a canopy of bare trees above a path clinging to the valley wall, rough stone blocks on one side of the dirt ruts and Spanish moss on the other. On the valley floor they were flooding the pastures via sluices – the sweet green grass glittered silver in the cold winter sunlight. Small villages everywhere – wood smoke, slate roofs dripping with frostmelt, the smell of mud and wet hay.

The city of Samos had a large, ornate monastery, and long parks stretched out along the river. A few km later I had a conversation with some card players on a hill and it left me smiling for the next several kilometers. I arrived at the edge of Sarria just as dark was becoming truly night, having walked from first light to last light. Of course, the last thing to face before the albergue on my 40km day was a huge staircase . . .

More pilgrims. Oscar, a Spaniard, and Anna, a Finn. Cleber is less than a day ahead. Now pardon me while I go sleep the sleep of the dead.

Expenses, Day 47
Provisions: 5.00
Albergue Sarria: 5.00
Menú: 10.00
Total: 20.00
Trip Total: 1059.84